Browse Exhibits (6 total)

      Grunge 

     There is a lot of history when it comes to grunge, the main influence on the grunge era had to do with the music from this time. In the late 1980 and early 1990s many major grunge music groups became popular and made grunge what it is today. The bands that played a big part in Grunge were Soundgarden, Pearl Jam, Mudhoney, Nirvana, Alice in Chains and others. Britannica.com described grunge music as “a bridge between mainstream 1980s heavy metal-hard rock and postpunk alternative rock”. Grunge music became very popular for many reasons, however some of the main reasons is that it really went against many of the social norms and allowed people to be different. It was a way for people to express the unfavorable realities of life. Music was also a way for others to be introduced to the grunge fashion. People would follow many of the popular bands and see the grunge fashion. Many people started to dress in the grunge style after seeing bands wearing this style.  

     The grunge movement originated in Seattle, which is in the Pacific Northwest of the United States, a region on the Pacific coast with a cold and humid climate. The region has mountainous spreads and lush forested valleys. This environment naturally contributed to the signature grunge style that gained mainstream popularity as Seattle-based grunge bands, like Nirvana, Soundgarden, and Pearl Jam, became popular. The grunge fashion movement was characterized by clothes reminiscent of the attire necessary to comfortably exist in the region surrounding Seattle. The climate in the Pacific Northwest is cold and wet, making it necessary to wear heavy clothing and footwear that can make it through mud and snow. The clothing was also reminiscent of jobs local to the area, like that of lumberjacks and dockworkers. This attire included heavy denim, work boots, sweaters, flannel shirts, beanie hats, sneakers, and so on. Grunge attire was often purchased secondhand or thrifted, and proudly included rips, tears, and stains, as it made the clothing feel worn and lived in. As Rick Marin wrote in an article titled “Grunge: A Success Story” in the New York Times in 1992:  

"A flannel shirt worn around the waist is a precaution against the Pacific Northwest’s mercurial clime. Army boots slog effectively through mud. 'It wasn’t like somebody said, "Let’s all dress like lumberjacks and start Seattle chic!" [A Seattle record label founder] said. 'This stuff is cheap, it’s durable, and it’s kind of timeless. It also runs against the grain of the whole flashy esthetic that existed in the 80’s.”

     The grunge fashion movement began as a practical ‘non-fashion’ clothing choice for early grunge icons and transformed into an iconic look in the 1990s as grunge bands gained widespread popularity. 

     Grunge fashion items were not just clothing; they were symbols of a cultural movement that rebelled against the polished and glamorous aesthetics of mainstream fashion. Flannel shirts, often sourced from thrift stores, were a defining piece, showing a sense of comfort and an anti-fashion sentiment. Worn oversized, they were usually draped over torn jeans or wrapped around the waist, channeling an attitude of indifference to social norms. Ripped and distressed denim, sometimes DIY-ed with scissors or sandpaper, became a statement piece, reflecting a "don't care" attitude. Chunky knit sweaters, preferably thrifted or hand-me-downs, showcased a rugged and lived-in appeal, blending warmth with a hint of grunge. Footwear choices like combat boots were more than just shoes; they were a rebellion, embracing a tough, utilitarian style that complemented the rough-hewn charm of the grunge look. Accessories were crucial in completing the ensemble; beanies over unkempt hair, chokers with pendants, layers of mismatched vintage jewelry, and well-worn backpacks were essential elements, providing a touch of individuality to the aesthetic. In essence, grunge fashion items were not just articles of clothing but tangible expressions of an anti-establishment ethos, embodying authenticity, defiance, and a rejection of conventional standards. According to Anne Fernando, “today, grunge fashion continues to influence streetwear and casual fashion, with elements of the style appearing in many modern fashion collections”.  

     As the grunge movement gained popularity and formed its own distinct style and culture, specific versions of grunge fashion evolved alongside it. One of the most notable “sub-fashions” of grunge in the 1990s was the kinderwhore aesthetic, made popular by artists like Courtney Love. Kinderwhore was unique in the way that the fashion primarily centered around femininity and women, as compared to the traditional unisex clothing of the general grunge style. Kinderwhore fashion takes elements traditionally associated with clothing for young girls like babydoll dresses, bows, tights, and Mary Jane-style shoes and pairs them with elements of grunge fashion like messy hair, dark makeup, ripping or distressing of the clothing, and skimpier versions of the babydoll dresses. By taking the youthful, innocence of girl’s clothing and applying darker elements native to the grunge aesthetic the look takes on a subtle darkness that is intended to reflect the reality of womanhood and femininity. Magazine Bust details how kinderwhore is used as a representation of how “art is often an expression of someone's reality, or perception of it, and womanhood is a fucked-up fairy tale for some”. Kinderwhore seeks to express the female condition through fashion by showing the “mixed dark side of womanhood and the complex personas a young woman takes on”. The 1990s was a period that closely followed the second wave of feminism, and examined the autonomy, independence, and sexual liberation of woman in the U.S.A and fashion played a key role in showcasing the changing standards for women. The kinderwhore look contributed to this by taking the expectation of women to be sweet, virginal, and complacent as represented by youthful clothing, and combining it with darker, edgier, and more aggressive styles. This contrasted what is expected of women as compared to the grittier reality of womanhood most women experience. 

     Grunge fashion was influenced from punk rock, which also came from the bands Nirvana and Pearl Jam. A way that the fashion world jumped on the grunge bandwagon was from the punk rock inheritors of its do-it-yourself ethic. The fashion designer Marc Jacobs was then named as “the guru of grunge.” In the 90s Marc Jacobs grunge fashion line caused an increase of  the popularity to grunge fashion. He was than considered a high fashion icon. Kate Moss was also an influencer of the grunge fashion bandwagon. She took grunge into high fashion because of her overall fame and reputation as models on the runway. Another thing that she made into high grunge fashion was by making a “heroin chic” look. “Heroin chic,” is a style that was popularized in the early 90s. it is characterized by pale skin, dark circles underneath the eyes, and stringy hair. In other words, it is also associated with the abuse of heroin and other drugs.  When it comes to music and grunge fashion, the bands Nirvana, Soundgarden, and Mudhoney take part in it due to their record label “Sub Pop 200.” The photographer, Charles Peterson, captured their grunge style with the hair-sweat-and-guitar look. According to the reading “Grunge: A Success Story,” grunge had a peak before the mass-marketing of disco, punk, and hip-hop. Grunge is now making another comeback known as Grunging of America. The glossy magazines also helped grunge fashion trends. They helped by tracking grunge looks such as the threadbare flannel shirts, knobby wool sweaters, and cracked leatherette coat stemming from the Pacific Northwest’s thrift-shop esthetic. Grunge fashion was thoughtless but with an edge.  

Bibliography 

Johnson, Sunni. “Kinderwhore And Courtney Love: A Retrospective.” Bust, Bust, 8 Feb. 2021, csbsju.instructure.com/courses/21953/files/3612957/download?download_frd=1. 

Marin, Rick. “Grunge: A Success Story.” The New York Times, 15 Nov. 1992, www.nytimes.com/1992/11/15/style/grunge-a-success-story.html. Accessed 28 Nov. 2023.  

Fernando, Anne. “The Definitive Grunge Fashion Guide and Outfit Ideas”. nakysha.com. https://nakysha.com/grunge-fashion-guide/. Accessed Dec. 4th 2023. 

Encyclopædia Britannica, inc. (2023, December 1). Post-rock. Encyclopædia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/art/post-rock 

American Punk Fashion represents fashion in a way that is different than the British Punk movement. To begin, British Punk Fashion was used to demonstrate political rebellion and reactions towards the economic state of Britain whereas American Punk Fashion was much more focused on the attitude of being “edgy” rather than a political movement. As our textbook explains, “Punk was fearless. Utterly fearless. The economic situation in Britain was its own source of inspiration” (Lydon 21). The trend was popular amongst American teenagers who wished to go against the social norm and wear what they desired. The American band, “The Ramones” and their love for graphic tees, leather jackets, and ripped denim jeans grew immensely in popularity in America as their iconic uniform became such a staple for punk fashion in the States. Some staples in the American Punk Fashion movement would be the Leather Motto Jacket, Chuck Taylor shoes, skinny ripped denim jeans, tightly fitted graphic t-shirts, a studded belt, black combat boots, the overall ideology of “Do it your own!”, and the safety pin. As John Lyndon describes in Chaos to Couture, “The most emblematic symbol of the punk movement may be the safety pin” (Lydon 21). This proves the carefree attitude associated with American Punk Fashion and how the symbolism was to go against society. 

The pre-punk scene in America, more specifically in the early 1970s, laid the foundation for the emergence of punk rock. At the forefront of this movement were the well-liked New York Dolls, a glam rock band that defied conventional norms with their fashion, loud music, and rebellious attitude. In one of the most influential places in America, New York City, the Dolls embodied a raw, unapologetic energy that opposed the mainstream. Their influence on the punk genre was profound as they set the stage for bands like the Ramones and the sex pistols. In essence, the New York Dolls laid the groundwork for punk rock by embodying a fierce individualism, a rejection of conformity and a commitment to authenticity that would inspire future punk bands to carry on. 

The London punk rock scene was incredibly politically driven as young people faced many issues because they felt that the government did not provide them with adequate education, training, or opportunity for employment. John Lydon, more famously known as Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols, describes the attitude in England at the time as “a sense of failure in Britain as a whole. It felt like the whole country was going to collapse.” The economic situation in Britain was certainly a driving force for the rebellious and anti-establishment attitude seen in the punk rock era, as young people were more than frustrated with the government (Lydon 21). This sense of rebellion took form in punk fashion and music. Punk rock bands like the Sex Pistols often sang about topics of rebellion or subject matter that was quite hard or offensive, for example, their song's titled “Anarchy In the UK” and “God Save the Queen" (Bolton 13). In fashion, these themes can be seen in the forms of BDSM/bondage wear and tartan. BDSM/bondage wear was popularized by the English designer Vivienne Westwood and was the primary attraction at the London boutique, Sex, that she co-owned with her then partner Malcom McLaren. This type of fashion incorporated elements like dog collars, leather, studs, latex, straps, and chains. These elements evoked very taboo topics and emotions, but that was one of the primary reasons why punk rockers incorporated them into fashion (Savage 25). This frustration and sense of rebellion was also reflected in the use of tartan in fashion. Prior to the punk movement, tartan was representative of the British royal family, authority, and high society. Members of the punk rock movement took this as a perfect opportunity to, once again, rebel against and mock the authority and higher society which they felt were the source of their struggles. Sex Pistols frontman, Johnny Rotten, was notorious for his tartan suits that he wore to many of the band's gigs. Other punk rockers took an even more rebellious approach, sporting tartan that was torn and tattered to pieces (Fedorova). This jab at the establishment and higher society demonstrates the true political motivations behind the punk scene in England.   

The DIY ethos is a central aspect of early British punk, and the fashion scenes that surrounded it. Thus, many early punks were young and poor; they were unable to afford the increasingly expensive punk designer clothing. These attitudes were not universal, as many punks wore costly designers like Vivienne Westwood and McQueen. However, creating their own clothing allowed them to break from societal expectations and create “outside combinations” that were dissimilar to the punk “uniforms” from Westwood (Lydon 22). Punks often customized and personalized their clothing, creating distinctive items that reflected their unique style and attitudes. A few common practices were the tearing of jeans, excess use of clothespins, sewing patches on clothing, and wearing “battered” leather jackets (Savage 29). These practices would eventually enter the mainstream with musicians like Johnny Rotten wearing Westwood renditions. The live shows of punk musicians were vital points for punk fashion to be displayed, as the news in Britain would cover the often-sensational concerts. 

British women played a vital role in the punk movement, challenging societal norms and contributing to the DIY ethos of the late 1970s. Bands like The Slits, led by Ari Up, blended punk with reggae influences, creating a unique sound. Poly Styrene of X-Ray Spex was another iconic figure known for her bold fashion choices and socially conscious lyrics. The “punk” look for women was similar to men in terms of the materials used and overall look that they portrayed. It consisted of several DIY aspects, including hardware, bricolage, graffiti and agitprop, as well as “DIY destroy”. The interesting part of this and British women in the punk era is that a majority of their clothing left little to imagination to the eye, while also making a political statement and furthering the feminist movement (Bolton 14). 

Viv Albertine, the guitarist for The Slits, later became an author and continued to influence the punk scene. Pauline Black of The Selecter brought ska and punk together, showcasing the diversity within the genre. Siouxsie Sioux, frontwoman for Siouxsie and the Banshees, embraced a gothic punk aesthetic and paved the way for women in alternative music. These women defied expectations, challenging the male-dominated punk scene and leaving a lasting impact on music and culture. Their contributions continue to inspire generations of musicians and fans. 

Citations: 

Fedorova, Anastasiia. “A Punk and Political History of Tartan.” I-D, 21 Mar. 2017, i-d.vice.com/en/article/vbde8x/a-punk-and-political-potted-history-of-tartan.  

Savage, Jon, Lydon, John, Bolton, Andrew, Hell, Richard et al. Punk: Chaos to Couture. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013. 

Sean Combs, widely known as P. Diddy, emerges as a transformative character in East Coast Hip-Hop, leaving an indelible mark on both the music and fashion scenes. Setting up Bad Boy Records that put the East Coast in the mainstream of Hip-Hop. Explored in the documentary "Fresh Dressed," P. Diddy played a pivotal role in shaping the aesthetic of East Coast Hip-Hop during the 1990s. One notable aspect that surfaced during this era and continues to define hip-hop fashion is the emphasis on monochrome outfits. The documentary "Free Stylin" further delves into the cultural significance of this trend, portraying monochrome as a symbol of sophistication and urban chic within the hip-hop community. This departure from conventional fashion norms not only displayed a sense of unity and strength but also reinforced P. Diddy's influence as a trendsetter. Additionally, P. Diddy's impact extends to the incorporation of camouflage (camo) fashion within the hip-hop culture, as highlighted in "Fresh Dressed." The documentary highlights how P. Diddy's adoption of camo fashion in his own style and clothing line transformed military-inspired apparel into a symbol of resilience and empowerment. The contrasting of the rugged camo pattern with the flamboyance of hip-hop culture, as presented in "Free Stylin," created a distinctive aesthetic that resonated with audiences, emphasizing the idea that fashion serves as a powerful form of self-expression and a reflection of one's identity. 

Fashion has always had a significant value on kids in the hood (“urban areas”). Fashion was shown as a sort of marker, which showed who had money and who didn’t. The more the label or the brand was recognizable, the better attention or the more amount of respect was given to an individual. This kind of thinking is where the term “fresh-dressed” was derived from (Skillz., 1992). Fresh meaning something brand new and dressed meaning clothing. Every aspect of an individual's look went into being fresh dressed not just the clothing, the haircut, how new their clothes were, right down to how clean the individual looked, all factored into the appearance of hip-hop. All of these variables were ways for the individual in the hood to separate from being poor. In many different places, what it meant or how it looked to be fresh dressed varied. Looking at New York, for example, it’s a big city with many different boroughs. Their looks were so distinctive that a person living in New York could tell where a person was from by how they dressed. Carlito Rodriguez, writer, producer, and former editor of “The Source” says “Bronx dudes looked a little more grimy. Brooklyn guys looked like stickup dudes. Manhattan dudes, uptown cats, were a little more dipped out. Lower East Side dudes were similar to Brooklyn (Skillz., 1992). With all the different neighborhoods, rappers from the different hoods cemented the “look” for each hood. For example, Biggie Smalls (Notorious B.I.G.) was from Brooklyn. Biggie had two looks that became popular during this time. The first one was the tracksuit look. The tracksuit look was first made popular in the late 80s with run DMC, who is also from New York, and Adidas. This trend continued to remain popular with Biggie, but the Adidas brand wasn’t the only one making tracksuits. The second look was the leather jacket, with denim jeans and Timberland boots. In particular an orange leather jacket with a multi-colored striped, blue shirt. With many hip-hop looks a gold chain and gold rings with an adjustable cap were added.   

Jay-Z, born Shawn Carter, is a monumental figure in East Coast Hip-Hop. His journey began in Brooklyn, New York, and he quickly rose to prominence in the mid-1990s. His debut album "Reasonable Doubt" in 1996, though not an immediate commercial success, garnered critical acclaim and set the stage for his influential career. Jay-Z's lyrical prowess, combined with his entrepreneurial spirit, positioned him as a central figure in the East Coast rap scene, particularly in the revival and sustained prominence of New York Hip-Hop. The evolution of Hip-Hop Fashion youtube video says he was especially known for his New York Yankee gear that included jackets and baseball caps (7:20). His ability to weave complex narratives, often drawing from his own experiences growing up in the Marcy Projects, resonated deeply with audiences. Jay-Z's impact extends beyond music; he has been a significant cultural influencer, shaping trends in fashion, business, and lifestyle within and outside hip-hop. His role in popularizing brands like Rocawear, his own urban clothing label, underscores his influence in fashion, mirroring his creative evolution in music. Jay-Z's style evolution is a narrative of personal and cultural growth. In his early career, he embodied the quintessential 90s hip-hop fashion with baggy jeans, oversized jerseys, and baseball caps. However, as he evolved as an artist and businessman, his style reflected this change. He transitioned into more sophisticated, tailored suits, often seen in his appearances and music videos in the 2000s. The documentary “Free Stylin” talks about how this shift symbolized not just a personal change but also mirrored a broader movement in hip-hop culture towards a more polished, mainstream look. His fashion choices often blend streetwear elements with high fashion, a fusion that has become more prevalent in the fashion world. This blend shows a respect for his roots in the hip-hop community while also embracing the broader influences of global fashion trends. Jay-Z's influence in fashion also includes his strategic partnerships and endorsements with major brands, reinforcing his status as a fashion icon. His collaboration with luxury brands has bridged the gap between streetwear and high fashion, making a significant impact on how hip-hop influences global fashion trends (7:30). In summary, Jay-Z's contribution to East Coast Hip-Hop goes beyond his music; it encapsulates a cultural movement that embraces innovation, sophistication, and a blend of street sensibilities with high fashion. His journey reflects the broader evolution of hip-hop culture, marking him as one of the most influential figures in its history. 

The Wu- Tang Clan is a Staten Island rap group made up of nine rappers, RZA, GZA, Ol’ Dirty Bastard, Inspectah Deck, Raekwon the Chef, U-God, Ghostface Killah, Masta Killa and Method Man. This group formed in 1992 when the hip- hop scene in the west coast was gaining attention. The Wu- Tang Clan managed to bring back the attention to East Coast hip- hop with the release of their 1993 album, Enter the Wu- Tang (36 Chambers). The Wu- Tang Clan managed success in various ways, take their name for example, it was inspired by martial arts movies that were popular in the 1970s and infused it into their music. The public went crazy for them wanting more than their music, as RZA, the leader and producer, said “The slang, the personality – everything. Even the hoodies and the Timberlands”. This shows how the group not only inspired people with music but also with their looks. Since the group was made up of 9 members that meant diversity in sound, projects, and fashion. Each member has their unique looks, but they all follow the dress code of East Coast Hip- Hop. In this exhibition, the unique fashion of the Wu- Tang Clan is seen in their oversized jackets, head accessories, color combination and brands. Wearing jackets or puffer vests was not an uncommon thing to see on the east coast because it’s colder than the west. Same goes for wearing leather jackets which was popular in New York. Many would find their jackets on Manhattan’s Delancey Street, known for having good jackets and coats for a decent price. Along with their jackets, accessorizing is another part of the dress code. Groups like Run- D.M.C. would use hats such as godfather hats as a staple element. Accessories are key because they add one’s personal touch and that’s what the Wu- Tang Clan is doing. Looking at both photographs of the Wu- Tang Clan, their color palette is pleasing to the gaze. Color coordination and combination were important because it indicated being fashionable in the hood. Sure, one can have a cool shirt or pants but if the colors clash how fashionable are they. Popular colors in the hood would be dark/ light blues and beige but also colors that go well with each other. For example, the photograph, The Wu- Tang Clan in New York 1997, some the group members are wearing warmer colors, but it still ties into coordination and combination because the blues and the warm colors complement each other on the color wheel making their color choices fashionably pleasing. Many legends have risen to fame in the ever-evolving world of East Coast hip-hop, each establishing an unforgettable stamp on the music and molding its path throughout their careers. "Free Stylin': How Hip Hop Changed the Fashion Industry" by Elena Romero (1973) gives special perspectives on hip-hop's revolutionary impact on several cultural elements, especially fashion. Sean Combs, better known as P. Diddy began his career at Uptown Records, where he showed a gifted talent for sales and production (Romero, 1973). His influence on the East Coast style became entangled with the sad end of The Notorious B.I.G., born Christopher Wallace in Brooklyn, whose lyrical genius reflected the cruel realities of city life (Romero, 1973). Shawn Carter, aka Jay-Z, came from Brooklyn's Marcy Projects, transforming his drug trafficking and gang life encounters into rap and establishing Roc-A-Fella Records. Romero's investigation of Jay-Z's entrepreneurial drive and lyrical perfection provides a full comprehension of his rise to rap titan, business magnate, and cultural icon (Romero, 1973). Curtis Jackson, more commonly known as 50 Cent, grew up on the rough streets of South Jamaica, Queens, and endured a troubled childhood defined by crime and poverty. Romero's assessment of 50 Cent's rise to fame, particularly with the release of "Get Rich or Die Tryin',sheds knowledge on his perseverance and grit (Romero, 1973). The Wu-Tang Clan, a Staten Island-based group composed of RZA, GZA, Method Man, along with others, developed an important unique sound on the East Coast. Romero's examination into the Clan's kung-fu-infused stories and inventive production techniques provides a distinct viewpoint on their contribution to hip-hop (Romero, 1973).  These key musicians not only ruled their own local scenarios, but also became worldwide icons, wrapping the East Coast hip-hop attitude. Romero's work bears witness to these artists' long legacy, serving as beacons of creativity, resilience, and victory in the face of hardship. "Free Stylin'" by Romero looks especially into the dynamic link between hip-hop and fashion, presenting a detailed knowledge of how these East Coast legends affected not only the music business but also the fashion world.The book emphasizes the complex nature of hip-hop, business ownership, and fashion, showing how figures such as P. Diddy, The Notorious B.I.G., Jay-Z, 50 Cent, and the Wu-Tang Clan's creative production methods and business ideas have transformed cultural narratives and fashion dynamics. "Free Stylin'" demonstrates the tremendous and enduring effect of East Coast hip-hop on the fashion industry, showcasing the interconnected growth of music and style through Romero's in-depth study and evaluation.

Romero, Elena. Free Stylin’: How Hip Hop Changed the Fashion Industry. ABC-CLIO, 6 Apr. 2012.